Summertime, and the living is eeeeeaaasy... actually no - it's already darn hot, so what better time to do a shirred dress tutorial for you all than now, hey? This dress is super simple to whip up. You won't even need a pattern, just a measuring tape and some lovely fabric. So let's get measuring, and get ready to sew!
Things you will need:
Fabric of your choice (I suggest a lightweight cotton, as you don't want anything too heavy for a shirred dress)
Elastic thread
1cm wide elastic
Matching thread
For the record, I used a Liberty Tana Lawn from
Tessuti Fabrics that I had hiding away in my stash.
Step 1:
Firstly you need to measure how much fabric you will need. I measured around Grumble's torso, and then multiplied that measurement by two plus seam allowances to get the total width of the dress. The shirred part will stretch over to fit the bust nicely, without feeling too tight.
Here are the standard torso measurements for children, based on Australian Standards:
Children's Measurements
Size Age Height Chest
2 2 - 3 years 92cm 56cm
3 3 - 4 years 100cm 58cm
4 4 - 5 years 108cm 60cm
5 5 - 6 years 115cm 62cm
6 6 - 7 years 120cm 64cm
7 7 - 8 years 125cm 66cm
8 8 - 9 years 130 - 140cm 68cm
10 10 - 11 years 140 - 150cm 74 - 80cm
11 11 - 12 years 150 - 160cm 80 - 86cm
12 12 - 13 years 155 - 160cm 86 - 90cm
13 13 - 14 years 160 - 165cm 90 - 95cm
14 14 - 15 years 165 - 170cm 95 - 100cm
Or, if you decide you'd rather make a shirred dress for yourself, here are the standard women's measurements, based on Australian Standards:
Women's Measurements
Size Bust Waist Hip
XS 75 - 80cm 56 - 61cm 84 - 88cm
S 82 - 87cm 61 - 66cm 88 - 93cm
M 92 - 97cm 71 - 76cm 98 - 103cm
L 102 - 109cm 81 - 88cm 108 - 115cm
XL 115 - 121cm 94 - 100cm 121 - 127cm
Firstly you'll need to figure out your torso measurement, and then double that, then add seam allowances. For example, Grumbles had a torso measurement of 68cm. Multiplying that by two gives you 136cm. Adding seam allowances of 2cm to each side makes it 140cm. You'll be cutting out a front and a back, so divide that figure by two to get the width of each piece. In this case it is 70cm.
I decided that I wanted the dress to be mid-calf in length, so measured Grumbles once more. The resulting measurement was 65cm, from top of bust line to mid-calf. Adding 5cm for seam and casing allowances gave me a final figure of 70cm.
So my final pattern piece for both front and back was 70cm wide and 70cm long. Once you've figured yours out, cut two of these.
Hooray! The maths part is over. Let's move on to some actual sewing!
Step 2:
Once you have cut out your pattern pieces, overlock or finish all edges.
Step 3:
Sew one side seam together, leaving the other side seam open.
Step 4:
Create the casing for the elastic. On the wrong side turn over the overlocked edge and press, then turn over again to create a 1.3cm wide casing. Press. Stitch the casing close to the edge. Oh, and try not to laugh at my daggy ironing board.
Step 5:
Before you begin to shirr, you'll need to have changed your normal bobbin for one that has been tightly wound with elastic thread. If the elastic thread isn't tightly wound onto the bobbin, then the elasticised effect will not occur. It's easiest to do this by hand, stretching tight the thread as you wind it onto the bobbin.
Now let the shirring begin! On the right side stitch a foot width away from the casing stitching. As you sew the elastic will cause the shirred part to bunch up behind your machine foot. It's pretty exciting!
Step 6:
Repeat the shirring a foot width away until you have done 10 rows, or until you have shirred for your desired amount. If you are large busted you may want to shirr more than 10, or if you are making it for a very young child you may want to shirr for less than 10 rows. Figure out what you'll be most comfortable with, and go from there.
You will probably need to re-wind your bobbin with more elastic thread every few rows. As you shirr, straighten out the fabric - it helps you keep a straight line.
Step 7:
Once the shirring has been completed, insert the desired length of 1cm wide elastic (measure it around the torso to see what length feels comfortable) into the casing at the top of the dress, tacking it to each end to keep it in place.
Then with right sides facing sew your other side seam together. I like to sew over the shirred part twice, just to reinforce the elastic thread. We don't want any of them wriggling loose now!
Then hem the bottom of the dress.
Step 8:
Measure out how long your shoulder straps will be, then cut a two 3cm strips of fabric this length. Folding the strips in two with right sides together, sew close to the edge of the strap. Trim seam allowances, then inside-out the strips. Attach the shoulder straps to the inside of the back and the front of the dress in your desired position. I find with Grumbles that the straps don't slip off her shoulders so much if I cross them over at the back.
Now pat yourself on the back and do a happy dance - you've completed a shirred dress!
The perfect pair of black pants. It's like the holy grail of fashion, isn't it - that and finding the perfect pair of jeans. Sometimes it can feel like mission impossible. Does such a thing truly exist?
Now, I don't know about you, but it feels like my own personal search for the holy grail has gone on for years. Most of the time it ends up with tears in change rooms and whimpers of "Nagdammit! My bum DOES look big in these!" Or, perversely, you find a pair that might just fit the bill, and then have a look at the price tag, which means that even if the pants come close to perfect, the price you must pay doesn't, so back on the rack they go. And so the search would go on. Every where you looked, black pants would dangle on their hangers catching your eye but there was always something wrong: legs too long, legs too wide, legs to short, waist too high, seat too baggy, fabric too nasty, cut too fugly. You find yourself back at home wearing your old faithful pair that have been washed and worn too many times and is starting to look beyond sad, but what choice do you have? The new perfect pair still eludes you.
If you've been in this situation, and feel like your search will never come to an end then rejoice, dear friends, rejoice! For I, Jorth, have gone boldly into black pant territory where many fear to tread, and have found the perfect pair indeed!
Ok, ok - so the caveat is that you'll have to make them yourself. But trust me - the best part about these pants is that they were a cinch, an absolute cinch to whip up. Hoorah!
Project Details
Pattern: #105 from Burda Style Magazine 6/2010
Fabric: 1.5m of " Something Black", a luscious cotton/viscose blend from Tessuti Fabrics. This fabric was so lovely to work with.
Notions: 22cm invisible zip, and interfacing for the waist band
Just in case you haven't guessed, I love these pants! They are super comfy to wear, and the weight is perfect for summer. I made mine up in size 36 without the side seam allowances, which means that they sit loosely on my waist, which is exactly how I like my summer pants to be. The fabric has a lovely sheen to it, which instantly makes the pants look quite dressy, particularly with the pleat details. I'm planning another pair for winter, but in a wool blend.
Besides the seam allowances, the only other alteration I made was to straighten and lengthen the leg. The original pattern calls for a curved hem on the pant going along the inside leg seam, but aesthetically that didn't appeal, so I made mine straight instead.
We're not really into celebrating Halloween here at chez Jorth. In fact, as a holiday it's never really taken off in Australia at all. However, Grumbles has been learning about it at school and has become quite gung-ho about decorating the house.
After she came home and presented me with her umpteenth scribbled pumpkin head ("Look Mum! Isn't it scary? Mum: Um, surrrrre!") I decided to take matters a step further, and enforced a family decorating session on Saturday night. Anything to keep the fambly happy, right?
It was a complete and utter debacle. Galumph, who was in charge of cutting out the face pieces, keep doing them out of the wrong paper. Grumbles decided that pleating paper wasn't really her thing, and kept wandering off to do other things, and I developed a bad case of sticky tape rage.
Due to my sticky tape rage, I actually morphed into a ghoul, berating my poor husband with snitchy comments like "If you don't cut out a black eye instead of a white one, I'll GIVE you a black eye!" We all ended up with a bad case of the Halloween blues, not helped by the fact that the darn decorations wouldn't even stay in place when we tried to hang them up.
I know that you're wondering about the masterpieces we created after all that energy was expended. Let's just say that I'm hanging up my Halloween crafting crown, because they really are pretty crap:

The only thing scary about these is the fact that I insisted on making them in the first place! Bloody Martha Stewart. Never again! I'm sticking to sewing from now on.
It feels a bit weird to be sitting inside on a 28 C day, knitting away despite the sunshine calling my name, but I've become an aunty for the first time on my husband's side so I couldn't let this momentous occasion slip by without a handknit now, could I?
Besides, I'm a big believer in welcoming a brand new, much-longed-for soul into the world with their very own knit, made for nobody else but them. And despite the copious sunshine today, the weather is predicted to take a turn for the worse, if not for the nasty, so while it will be bad for all the hypothermic race goers, it will be pleasant indeed for me. I shall spend the weekend contentedly perched on the couch, knitting away with a cup of tea near by, happily listening to the rain as I think joyful thoughts about the wee one that has come safely into this world.
Besides, how stinkin' cute is this knit? The pattern is a Debbie Bliss one, and better than that - it's a FREE Debbie Bliss one. Hoorah! You can get your paws on the pattern right over here.
I'm totally feeling the nautical vibe this summer, and as soon as I saw this pattern in the 2/2010 Burda Magazine, I knew this top had to be made. In fact, I may* have even uttered a little "Arrrrrr! That top will be better than a frigate off the starboard side with all canon's a-firing!"**
So shiver me timbers, I whipped it up before a sewing mutiny could occur, and I was forced to walk the overlocker plank.
What? Me hearties want the gory details? Well, all hands to deck and set yer sails: here are the deets before you get your fishing lines knickers in a sailor's knot:
Project Details
Pattern: Striped Top from Burda Magazine 2/2010
Fabric: Jersey knit from Tessuti Fabrics
This was a very quick and easy top to sew together. I did add some pleats to the sleeve raglan edge, and this made the neckline fit much better. I made it up in size 34, and didn't add any of the side seam allowances as I find the Burda cut can be a little on the generous side, and I wanted a nice, fitted style top.
*Any excuse to do a crusty old pirate voice!
**Actually, I think most things are better than that particular situation.
***Many thanks to dear husband and all his years of reading/watching Hornblower for the ship shape navy terms.
...of a little bit of " Drape Drape 2" dress manipulation I've been doing. And boy, is it fun!
There's a new bandit in town. You'll know her by her clever disguise - she can bounce the sun's glare directly into your eyes from her mask, rendering you blind and enabling her a quick get away.
You may also know her by her dodgy dance moves. The Stripey Bandit sure does like to rock on!
Project Details
Pattern: Dress #12 from Ottobre Design Magazine 2/2005
Fabric: 1m of stripey cotton print, which wasn't quite enough - boy did I do some head scratching trying to fit all the pattern pieces in! Still, yet enough stash buster, so I'm pleased.
Notions: elastic for sleeves and neckline
I adore this dress - I'm so happy with how the stripes look going both ways. It's a winner!
Don't forget, fellow Australians, that tomorrow is Ride To Work Day! You can bet that I'll be proudly mounting my faithful blue steed (hmmm, that sounded rather wrong!) and pedalling in to work after scoffing my FREE BREAKFAST organised by the good folks at Bicycle Victoria.
If you see me pedalling along, feel free to wave - although I will be honest: I will put the heels in my bike basket and pedal safely in my daggy old sandals.
So that is how you shall know me - I'll be the one with the cool dress but awful shoes, replete with distended stomach doing free coffee/muffin/croissant/fruit salad burps as I ride maybe not so gracefully into work. Still, it beats being stuck in traffic or wedged into somebody's armpit on public transport. Viva la velo!
Now, forgive me if I'm wrong...
...but I think somebody is rather pleased with her new top!
Project Details
Pattern: Peasant Blouse from Ottobre Magazine 2/2005
Fabric: 50cm cotton from stash. Love a stash project!
Notions: elastic for sleeves and neck edge, plus shirring elastic
Watch out for more of these this summer!
Oh my sainted aunt - what is that... that thing vomitting all over my kitchen table?
Before I end your suspense, a little background: today I had the day off work, and decided to get cracking on Grumble's summer wardrobe. Foolish me thought it would be a mere matter of opening the bureau door and fishing out the fabric I had in mind, but instead I was confronted with a jumble of fabrics all threatening to spill out of the over packed cupboard, and all baying for attention with the same refrain: "Remember me? I was meant to be a dress by now! So when you gonna sew me up, huh? HUH?"
With a sigh I set aside my initial intention, got down on my hands and knees and began the job of sorting through the fabric stash, and figuring out my plans. Fabric that I did have a specific project in mind for was neatly folded up with the corresponding pattern placed on top, and carefully lined up on the shelf. Scrappy bits that were kept for whatever reason were reevaluated, and either consigned to the op-shop bag or to the 'other projects' pile. And all those weird odds and sods were put into a bag to be donated to the local kindergarten.
After working steadily for a good half hour, I rocked back onto my heels and surveyed with satisfaction the work I had done. But alas! I had forgotten the scrap bag. Now that I came to think of it, I hadn't come upon the fabric I wanted for Grumble's top, so I took the scrap bag out to the kitchen table, and began to hunt for it.
All those scraps - mostly left over pieces from clothes I had made for Grumbles - spilled out onto the table. Here was a piece from her first summer dress. Here was a piece from the jeans I had made, and lined with spotted cotton. Here was a piece from the top she wore on her first day of kinder. Here was a piece for each day we were happy, sitting in the sun, just my girl and me. Each one felt like a precious memory, and couldn't be thrown away, but collectively the bag seemed to be taunting me. "LOOOOOK!" the scraps brayed, "Look at all these pieces left from the clothes you made your child. Clothes for a little girl that you can never make again, because your daughter is growing up faster than you would like, and you can't have any more children, so you'll never be able to make those clothes again. BWAHAHAHAHAHAH!"
Good grief! It was like the fabric elephant in the room had come to life. I almost burst into tears looking at all the pieces. The worst thing is, though, that even though I don't want these scraps to hang around as a reminder of what-might-have-been, I don't want to throw them either. The bittersweet memories were suddenly too much, and I was feeling them too deeply. I was standing in my kitchen, having a meltdown over a bag of cloth, battling to keep my emotions in check. But bloody hell - the cloth scraps were winning!
Then I thought of something. My salvation, so to speak. I would make the scraps into a yo yo garland! That way I could do something useful with the scraps, and keep the happy memories associated alive, but could put it away when I tired of it.
Restraining myself from doing a little happy jig, I leaned in and whispered to the fabric bag "So! What do you think of my clever plan?"
The scrap bag was silent. It knew a winner when it saw one.
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